BREEDING MANAGEMENT IN DOGS:

1. BREEDING MANAGEMENT is an important component of successful planned reproduction in dogs. Mismanagement accounts for many of the breeding problems you see in practice. Because of the wide variation seen in normal canine reproductive cycles, it is not surprising that management issues confuse breeders and veterinarians alike. This article describes the tools that can help you assist dog breeders in obtaining pregnancies in their bitches.

Routine breeding management

Laboratory tests

Brucella canis testing should always be part of a prebreeding workup in both male and female dogs. It is advisable to require Brucella species screening in all outside bitches coming to a stud dog. Bitches are usually asymptomatic carriers of B. canis, and late?term abortion is often the first sign of infection. You should periodically screen a stud dog that is routinely servicing outside bitches even though it is unlikely that a male dog would be infected with B. cams without showing clinical signs, such as epididymo?orchitis.

The rapid slide agglutination test is an excellent in?house screening test (D?Tec CB Canine Brucellosis Antibody Test?Synbiotics). If the slide test yields a positive result, perform additional testing to rule out a false positive result. A negative agar gel immunodiffusion test result rules out a false positive result.' The agar gel immunodiffusion assay tests for cytoplasmic and cell surface antigens, effectively differentiating between true positive and false positive results.

Stud dog owners often request a vaginal culture before an outside bitch is bred. But without clinical signs or a history of reproductive dysfunction, vaginal cultures are usually not indicated. Bitches have normal vaginal flora, which has been described. In one study of normal reproducing brood bitches, 98% of the bitches had positive vaginal culture results for Pasteurella multocida, 89% for (3%hemolytic streptococci, 84% for Escherichia coh, 67% for Pasteurella species, 59% for Mycoplasma species, 55% for Streptococcus species, 44% for enterococci, 40% for Coryneform species, 33% for Staphylococcus intermedius, 25% for Proteus mirabilis, 22% for coagulasenegative staphylococci, and 10% for Pseudomonas species. Similar results were found in cultures from the prepuces of normal stud dogs.

Requiring routine prebreeding vaginal cultures from bitches not only wastes time and money but may lead to inappropriate antimicrobial therapy. One study showed that using antimicrobial drugs in healthy bitches promoted the growth of opportunistic pathogens in the vagina such as E. coli and Mycoplasma species . Some of the normal bitches in this study developed vulvar discharges during antimicrobial therapy.

If an owner still requests a vaginal culture, you must carefully interpret the culture results. Use the findings of a thorough history and physical examination and vaginal cytology to help interpret a positive result. Obtain vaginal cultures with a guarded swab, preferably by using a sterile speculum. The vulva and vestibule are heavily contaminated with bacteria, so avoid them when culturing the vagina.

Scheduling the breeding

It is not unusual for the vulva to be swollen several days before the onset of bloody discharge or for bitches to attract male dogs several weeks before the onset of bloody discharge. Serum estrogen concentrations are quite high for two months before the onset of bloody discharge. Male dogs can detect the pheromones associated with elevations in estrogen before the onset of clinically apparent proestrus.

After the onset of proestrus, a bitch should be brought to a male dog for introductions and detection of standing behavior. It is best to take the bitch to the dog because of territorial considerations. Bitches will feel less dominant outside their home territory, and male dogs must be more dominant than bitches for the bitches to allow breeding. Dominant (alpha) bitches will not allow breeding by less dominant (beta) males. Once standing behavior has begun, breeding should occur every two or three days until the bitch will no longer stand for the dog. On average, bitches will begin to stand on Day 9 or 10 and will quit standing on Day 16 or 17. (For the sake of consistency, in this discussion Day 1 refers to the first day of bloody discharge.) A history of a bitch's previous estrous cycles will help detect the normal variations seen among bitches. Proestrus normally ranges from 2 to 21 days, and estrus also normally ranges from 2 to 21 days. So flexibility is required to accommodate these wide variations.

Routine breeding management will suffice in most breeding situations. If a normal bitch is bred at the correct time to a fertile dog, the bitch should get pregnant.

Aids to breeding management

Vaginal cytology Practitioners must understand why cytologic changes occur and what the changes indicate. The vagina is lined with squamous epithelium that responds to estrogen by increasing in thickness. Normally, the vaginal epithelium is only a few cell layers thick and is susceptible to injury by even the lightest touch. This is demonstrated by the fact that petechial hemorrhages are common when vaginoscopy is performed at any time other than proestrus and estrus. When under the influence of estrogen, the vaginal epithelium thickens to 20 to 40 cell layers. This thickening protects the vagina during copulation. As the vaginal epithelium thickens, exfoliative vaginal cytology shows the change from noncornified to cornified epithelial cells. When cornified epithelial cells predominate, the bitch is either in proestrus or estrus.

Vaginal cytology is not exact enough to determine the onset of ovulation or the optimal time of breeding. Red blood cells are present during proestrus and tend to disappear during estrus, but some normal bitches bleed profusely throughout both proestrus and estrus. White blood cells tend to disappear during estrus. The thickened vaginal epithelium blocks neutrophil migration to the vaginal lumen. Rarely, a normal bitch will continue to display neutrophils in vaginal cytology during estrus. The value of vaginal cytology is often overestimated in breeding management. But one absolute finding in vaginal cytology is the onset of diestrus. The vaginal cytology changes abruptly and dramatically over 24 to 48 hours from a predominantly cornified pattern to a predominantly noncornified pattern. Neutrophils are present in large numbers. The first day of this dramatic cytologic change is referred to as Diestrus Day 1 or D1. This information is valuable because it can be used to predict gestation length. Bitches typically whelp 56 or 57 days after the onset of cytologic diestrus.

Vaginoscopy

Vaginoscopy is a more accurate diagnostic breeding management tool in bitches than vaginal cytology. Under the influence of estrogen, the vaginal folds become swollen, moist, and pink. As a bitch progresses through proestrus and into estrus, these folds begin to lose their swollen appearance and become wrinkled. When the bitch is in full estrus, the vaginal folds have pronounced wrinkles with well defined edges). As the bitch progresses from estrus to diestrus, the vaginal folds become flattened, and the vaginal mucosa takes on a red?and?white?striped appearance. Vaginoscopy is easy to do and can be done in an awake, nontranquilized, standing bitch. Proctoscopes or endoscopes, either flexible or rigid, may be used. The scope must be no more than 8 to 15 mm in diameter and at least 10 to 20 cm in length with an adequate light source. You can use vaginoscopy with or in lieu of vaginal cytology.

Serum progesterone and luteinizing hormone assays

Ovulation timing kits have recently become available for use in veterinary practice. These kits have revolutionized canine breeding management. These kits are invaluable when managing bitches with fertility problems or when limited breedings are required or desired. These kits are easy to use and have a shelf life of about one year when kept refrigerated. They allow the routine use of cooled, shipped semen and frozen semen in bitches. And they've improved the breeding management of bitches with cycles shorter or longer than average.

Ovulation timing kits are enzymelinked immunosorbent assays (ELISA) that detect serum progesterone concentrations. During proestrus, a bitch is under the influence of estrogen but not progesterone. The first rise in progesterone concentration correlates with the ovulatory luteinizing hormone (LH) peak (Figure 2). The combination of estrogen and progesterone initiates standing behavior in bitches. Once the ovulatory LH peak has occurred, ovulation will begin in 24 to 48 hours. It takes about 24 to 48 hours for ovulation to be complete, and it takes another 24 to 48 hours for the primary oocytes to undergo two meiotic divisions to become secondary oocytes capable of being fertilized (Figure 2).

Ovulation timing kits allow indirect detection of the LH peak by detecting the first rise in progesterone concentration. Test bitches every other day, usually starting on Day 5 of proestrus or when the vaginal cytologic examination reveals at least 50% superficial cornified epithelial cells You can start testing earlier if there is any question about the cycle length or if a bitch has a history of a short cycle length. Testing may progress to daily sampling if shipped or frozen semen demands a more accurate detection of the progesterone concentration increase. A tentative plan, once the first increase in progesterone concentration has been detected, is to breed the bitch four and six days later. It is important to keep testing for the continued increase in progesterone concentration. Most bitches will have progesterone concentrations above the upper detection limit of the kit four to six days after the initial increase in progesterone concentration. The upper detection limit of most kits is 5 to 7.5 ng/ml. Occasionally, bitches do not progress as expected. By continuing to test these bitches until their progesterone concentration goes beyond the kit's upper detection limit, breeding can be assured to take place at the appropriate time.

Several ELISA kits are available (e.g. Status Pro Canine Ovulation Timing Test Symbiotics; Target Canine Ovulation Test Biometallics; Ovucheck Camelot Farms). Breeding recommendations for using these kits vary among the type of breeding desired. In our experience, when breeding naturally or with fresh semen by artificial insemination breeding should take place the day that a progesterone concentration of 5 to 7.5 ng/ml is achieved and again 24 to 48 hours later. The same basic recommendation applies to cooled, shipped semen. When using frozen semen, intrauterine deposition of semen is best performed 72 hours after a progesterone concentration of 5 to 7.5 ng/ml is reached. This is the optimal time when the highest numbers of viable secondary oocytes are available for fertilization.

Other uses for progesterone kits make them a worthwhile addition to a practice's laboratory. Progesterone concentration is easy to interpret; any progesterone concentration over 1 ng/ml is indicative of luteal tissue on the ovary. Progesterone assays may provide useful information when pyometra is suspected in a bitch whose cycle history is unknown. In pregnant bitches, a drop in body temperature may signal a drop in progesterone concentration, which indicates the end of the luteal phase and can help you predict the onset of whelping. Progesterone concentration testing can be used to diagnose ovarian remnant syndrome, the presence of ovarian tissue, in a spayed bitch or queen. By measuring progesterone concentrations you can also determine the presence of luteal tissue in a bitch that is cycling silently.

Recently, an LH assay has been marketed (Status LH Luteinizing Hormone Test Synbiotics) for use in breeding management of bitches. The suggested use for this assay is to test blood samples daily starting on Day 5 of proestrus or after vaginal cytologic examination reveals at least 50% cornified epithelial cells. When using the LH assay, remember that a bitch might have numerous LH surges before the ovulatory LH peak. Always use a progesterone assay in conjunction with an LH assay to determine the optimal breeding time. This adds to the cost of the breeding but may be justified in certain situations, particularly when breeding with frozen semen.

Surgical insemination

Surgical insemination in bitches was first introduced when frozen semen was being investigated in dogs. In cows and mares, successes were obtained by intrauterine deposition of thawed semen. Because of the abdominal location of the canine cervix and the perpendicular route of the cervical lumen, it is difficult to access the canine uterus via the vagina. Good conception rates in bitches were obtained only when the frozen semen was deposited directly into the uterus. This is most easily accomplished through a laparotomy incision. We have found that surgical insemination is an acceptable therapy for infertility in bitches. In our experience, a high percentage of bitches that did not successfully conceive after intense breeding management conceived when bred surgically.

The technique for surgical insemination is simple. After routine surgical preparation of the caudal abdomen, make an abdominal incision over the body of the uterus. Exteriorize the body of the uterus through the incision site. Inject semen through the wall of the uterus into the body of the uterus either using a syringe with a 20ga needle or through a 2in, 20ga intravenous catheter placed in a prepunched hole in the uterine wall. You can make the hole by using the blunt end of a suture needle. Fresh, cooled, or frozen semen can be used, although fresh semen is preferred. Inject the semen into the uterine body with a needle or catheter directed toward the uterine horns. You will be able to see and feel the uterine lumen fill with semen. Place digital pressure over the insemination site as you remove the needle or catheter. Then return the uterus to the abdomen, and close the incision site routinely. Timing is critical when using surgical insemination, as with any breeding. Ovulation timing kits are mandatory when using surgical insemination with frozen semen or for treating infertility.

Transcervical insemination

An alternative method of intrauterine insemination is transcervical insemination through the vagina. The canine vagina is relatively long (e.g. 10 to 14 cm in a 24lb [11kg] bitch and up to 29 cm in giant breed bitches). The canine cervix is in the abdomen, and the cervical lumen runs caudoventrally from the uterus to the vagina. Because of these unique anatomical characteristics in dogs, specialized equipment is necessary to catheterize the cervix. Fiberoptic endoscopic equipment for this purpose has to have sufficient length and diameter to access the anterior vagina (Storz extended length fiberscope for urethrocystoscopy Karl Storz Veterinary Endoscopy). With practice, you can learn how to place a catheter in a bitch's cervix so you can deposit semen directly into the uterus. This technique's advantages over surgical insemination include avoiding the stress of anesthesia and surgery and having the ability to do multiple inseminations over several days, which may increase the success of breedings.

Conclusion

Breeding management in dogs has undergone dramatic changes in the last 10 to 15 years. If routine breeding management proves to be insufficient, you can use additional breeding management tools, which now include inhouse progesterone and LH kits. If available, laboratories that provide radioimmunoassay quantitative same day or next day results will provide more accurate information than ELISA kits. With these advances in canine breeding management, the successful use of cooled, shipped semen and frozen semen is becoming routine in dogs.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR WHELPING PUPPIES:

SUGGESTED PREPARATION FOR WHELPING

1. The place where the bitch (mother dog) is to whelp should be prepared a week or so in advance, allowing her to sleep there at night and rest there during the day so that she will be well accustomed to the strange surroundings when the time comes for her to whelp. Many places may be used for whelping. It should be away from activity, noise, and other pets. Think of ease of cleaning (no carpets), and access to the outside for larger breeds.

2. A whelping box should be constructed using either plywood or sturdy cardboard packing cartons. For a medium sized bitch, a whelping box of four feet square is adequate. Make the sides high enough to prevent drafts and line the box with several thicknesses of newspapers. An old mattress pad or quilt in the corner of the box will afford an excellent bed for the puppies to lie on with their dam. The front of the box should be cut away so the bitch can enter and leave the box unaided.

3. Provide a warm place to put the puppies as they are born, such as a basket with a hot water bottle or heating pad. The puppies can later be transferred to the whelping box when the mother dog has completed giving birth. If the puppies get too hot they will "scream" and cry, and if too cold they will whimper. Make sure that you do not take the basket out of mother's sight, since this would upset her and interfere with the remainder of whelping. If the puppies are hungry, they will make "angry" cries.

4. It may be necessary, in the long haired breeds, to comb out or preferably cut the hair around the mammary glands and nipples about a week in advance. Most bitches will start to shed some hair around the nipples about 2 weeks before whelping. The underside of the mother should be gently and thoroughly washed and rinsed clean before the whelping. Any abnormal discharges such as bloody milk, or greenish yellow pus in the milk coming from the nipples and mammary glands should be brought to the attention of your veterinarian.

5. Have iodine or suitable disinfectant on had for the opened end of the umbilicus on each puppy.

Some dental floss will work to tie around the base of the cord if its bleeding. Tie a knot 1/4 to 1/2 inches from the puppy's abdomen. Plenty of clean towels and a human nasal aspirator for nasal mucus removal are also handy to have. An accurate way to weigh the puppies is essential. You may need a gram scale for smaller breeds, dams under 20 pounds. A milk supplement and bottle feeder may be needed.

6. Smaller breeds will definitely need a heat source in the whelping box. Covered heating pads work best. Be careful of heat lamps. Some gradient of heat should be provided, so the pups and dam can move to their own comfort zone.

7. Prior abdominal radiographs of the dam during her 8^th week will help at birthing to determine the end point and exactly what to expect. This is especially helpful for first time owners. Ultrasouding is not as accurate especially in large litters.

8. Have emergency phone numbers handy for regular and after hours handy.

9. It is assumed that with the breeding of this pregnancy, consideration of the parents genetic contributions, venereal disease transmissions, and recent deparasitizing and immunizations just prior to insemination took place in the bitch. If these were not taken into account, let your doctor know. Puppies may be at risk of diseases unnecessarily.

  II. SIGNS OF ONCOMING LABOR

There may be a pre-labor period 8 to 24 hours in duration. The following signs may be seen during the pre-labor period, indicating the approaching whelping.

1. The bitch becomes restless, getting up, lying down, and changing her position frequently. She may vomit from nervousness.

2. She may paw and scratch at her bedding as if she were preparing a nest. She may tear newspaper up into little pieces in her attempt to make a nest.

3. Lack of interest in even the most tempting food is usually a sure sign that whelping is approaching.

4. Rectal temperature, taken with a rectal thermometer, will fall below 990 twelve hours or less prior to whelping. If' you start taking the bitch's temperature twice a day after the 59th or 60th day of gestation, her temperature will begin to decrease from a normal of 1010-1020 to 990-1000. When it finally goes below 990, she will start giving birth within 12 hours.

5. Milk can be expressed from the nipple near or at the time of birth in those bitches having their first litter and about 4 days prior to whelping in those bitches which have had one or more litters previously.

 

III. THE WHELPING PERIOD (LABOR)

Most bitches will whelp alone and without assistance, needing only supervision by you to see that all is going well. If you bother the bitch too much or interfere you will make her nervous. Be ready to help her or seek help when labor begins if any abnormalities should develop. When in labor, you will see her begin to undergo contractions; she may lie on her side and strain or stand in a "urination stance" (squatting as if to urinate) as she strains. YOU SHOULD TAKE ACTION IF YOU SEE:

HEAVY LABOR ATTEMPTS WITH NO PUPPIES ARRIVING FOR 1-2 HOURS OR SOONER

A VAGINAL COMMITMENT TO PLACENTAL OR FETAL STRUCTURE WITH NO ADVANCEMENT

These situations may develop during any phase of the birthing period. Before you panic and call, wash your dominant hand well with good soap and water, and try to determine if and what is present vaginally. Having someone muzzle the dam and holding her will reduce the risk of fear or pain bites. Gently ascend a finger or two vaginally and determine if there is something already committed vaginally. If so delays in the delivery may damage the fetus, so try to help the dam pull it out if you can grasp a puppy body part. Try this before calling, you may just save a pup from brain damage or even death Packing up and travel to an emergency visit takes precious time.

LABOR STEPS IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER:

1. Abdominal straining in the urination stance if lying on her side.

2. Appearance of the "water bag" at the vulva. (The bag is part of the placenta).

3. With continued straining the "water bag" should be forced out within 15 minutes. The puppy will be contained within this membranous sac. The mother should chew the membranes from around the newborn puppy and free it from the sac. She should then bite the umbilical cord in half and lick the puppy dry. This will stimulate the puppy to breathe and cry. She may then eat the membranous sac. (placenta) These membranes will not harm her, but don't allow her to eat more than one or two of the placenta since they may cause some indigestion. Some mothers fail to break the sac and free the puppy. If so, you should help her to break the sac and free the puppy and encourage her to lick the puppy. If she fails to lick the newborn pup, you should gently but vigorously rub the puppy with a rough towel until it starts breathing and crying. Then, sever the umbilical cord about 1/2 inches from the puppy's abdomen with a clean scissors. It is better to "crush" the cord in half rather than a clean cut. You should tie clean thread around the end of the cut cord to prevent bleeding. The cord will shrink up as it dries and will fall off in a few days. (Make sure you have left the cord at least 1/2 inches long) Keep a bottle of alcohol handy for rinsing the scissors before use. A shallow dish of Iodine or bactine solution can be used to dip the end of the umbilical cord after you have tied it.

4. Afterbirth (placenta) should follow each pup within 5 to 15 minutes. Keep a count of the number of afterbirths. Not every puppy is followed by it's placenta, and you may have placentas retained that will be a part of the post delivery discharge. This and breech birthing is normal in the bitch. This can last up to 4 weeks and be normal. Don't allow the mother to eat more than one or two afterbirths since she may get indigestion and diarrhea if allowed to do so.

5. Another puppy should follow in 1 to 2 hours. If the mother continues to strain and have contractions for more then 2 hours without giving birth to another puppy, CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN.

After the puppy has been dried, umbilical cord severed, (and tied if you severed the cord) encourage the mother to lick her puppy, but she may be disinterested in her puppies until she is through giving birth to all her puppies. Then, place the puppy in the small box or basket containing the heating pad or hot water bottle that your have prepared before hand. Make sure the heating pad is not too warm and cover it with some towels. It is not necessary that the puppies nurse until the mother dog has completed whelping all her puppies. (unless complications develop during whelping)

6. After the mother has completed whelping she will lie down and rest with no further straining or contractions. Then, take her out of the whelping box and allow her to urinate outside. Return her to the whelping box and give her the puppies to nurse.

7. The mother should be examined within 24 to 48 hours after whelping and given a Posterior pituitary extract (P.O.P.) injection.

8. In breeds that require tail docking and dewclaw removal, 4 or 5 days of age is the recommended time for this procedure.

  IV Post Whelping Chores

There are two common killers of new born puppies: Lack of heat, and lack of groceries! If you find puppies restless, sucking at everything they can for long time periods, crying or fussing all the time, cold to the touch or lethargic, or rejected by the dam you must make sure these two things are fullfilled. Place a thermometer rectally, it should be close to 97 F no cooler. Puppies should be warmed to close to 100F if failing for any reason, and kept there for the first week. Healthy pups at 97F to 100F can be normal the first week and left normally. Once body temperature is taken care of you must be certain that weight gain is occurring. WEIGH THE PUPPIES ACCURATELY and in large litters identify the puppies with a marking system that the bitch can't lick off. Check the mother's nipples and breast for milk. If its not adequate to satisfy complaining puppies or registering a weight gain, you must supplement. There little bellies should be full looking. Supplement and bottles can be purchased in good pet shops.

1. Determine the happiness of each pup hourly. The first eighteen hours are the most critical.
2. Weigh the pups often the first few days especially.
3. Determine slower puppies rectal temperatures often.
4. Leave the dam alone to work. If you interfere too much it's counterproductive.
5. Check the dam's mammary glands daily for signs of mastitis. They should be soft.
6. Puppies need to be stimulated to urinate and defecate. If the mother is not, do so.
7. Check the pups for congenital defects cleft pallets, abnormal extremities, etc.

Fading puppy and kitten syndrome: Do you know the signs?

Veterinary Medicine NOVEMBER 2005

The failure to thrive in newborn puppies and kittens, or neonates, is known as fading puppy and kitten syndrome. The syndrome can occur from birth to 9 weeks of age. Affected neonates can decline quickly and die, so immediate detection and treatment are key to survival. Be sure you know what to look for and what to do if you see any warning signs.
Causes
The causes of fading puppy and kitten syndrome are divided into three groups: environmental, genetic, and infectious.
Environmental
• Hypothermia or hypothermia—Puppies and kittens' body temperatures vary with the environment for the first week of life, thus making them easily susceptible to becoming too cold or too hot. They are able to shiver, which helps keep them warm, when they are about 6 days old, and they develop the ability to pant in response to overheating within the first week.
Neonates that are too cold are unable to digest food or nurse. Their heart rates decrease and their circulatory and respiratory systems can collapse. These neonates must be seen by a veterinarian immediately because hypothermia can quickly cause death. Hypothermia is less common but can occur in hot climates or with inappropriate supplemental heat. Overheated neonates often cry relentlessly.
• Maternal factors—Overweight or older dams are more likely to experience neonatal loss.
• Maternal neglect—Maternal neglect can be exhibited by a dam's reluctance to lie with and warm the neonates, refusal to permit nursing, or lack of sufficient milk production. Large-breed or barrel-bodied dogs may also step on or clumsily crush puppies.
• Environmental toxins—Neonatal skin is thin, and chemicals can be more readily absorbed through the skin in a neonate than in an adult. Breathing chemical fumes is also a concern. So evaluate the bedding material and products used to clean the whelping or queening box. Avoid pine oils and phenols as well as direct contact with bleach or quaternary ammonium (e.g. Roccal—Pfizer Animal Health; Parvosol—Neogen) residue.1 Use gentle cleaners with little odor, and remove all residue before contact with the neonates.
Genetic or congenital factors
• Physical defects—Abnormalities of the mouth, anus, skull, and heart that are present at birth are relatively common. Swimmer (flat) puppies and kittens can be identified by flattened and widened chests. Pectus excavatum is a severe deformity resulting from intrusion of the breastbone into the chest cavity. Neonates with physical abnormalities should be evaluated immediately.
• Birth weight—Kittens have a normal birth weight of 100 ± 10 g (3.5 ± 0.35 oz). Kittens with a birth weight of less than 90 g (3.2 oz) have poor survival rates.2 The normal puppy birth weight varies with breed. For example, Pomeranian birth weights are about 120 g (4.2 oz), and Great Danes weigh about 625 g (22 oz).
While pups and kittens may lose a small amount of weight (< 10%) during the first 24 hours of life, after that weight gain should be steady. Pups should gain 5% to 10% of birth weight daily, while kittens should gain 7 to 10 g (0.25 to 0.35 oz) a day. Weigh neonates twice a day, and bring them in for immediate examination if normal daily weight gain does not occur.
Associated with low weight is transient juvenile hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) syndrome, particularly
in toy-breed dogs. Failure to maintain frequent feedings can result in low blood sugar. This can occur for several weeks to months in toy breeds and often arises when the pups are transferred to a new home where feeding schedules are not rigidly followed.
• Neonatal alloimmune hemotytic anemia in cats— Cats have two main blood types, A and B. Some kittens' blood types do not match the queen's blood type. Kittens with type A blood that ingest colostrum while nursing from a queen with type B blood absorb antibodies that destroy their red blood cells, which leads to severe illness or death.
Infectious agents
• Bacterial infection—Because of their immature immune systems, puppies and kittens are at risk for infection through the placenta, umbilicus, or gastrointestinal or respiratory tract from contaminated environments. Clinical signs of bacterial infection vary but include vomiting, diarrhea, constant crying, fever, failure to nurse, and sloughing of the ear and tail tips and toes.
• Viral infection—Many viruses can affect neonates. Canine herpesvirus infection is common in puppies, and signs vary from constant crying to abdominal pain. Canine parvovirus type 1 produces a rapid onset of crying, failure to nurse, vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, and weakness. In kittens, feline herpesvirus type I and calicivirus are most common.3 Coronavirus infections are also common in ill kittens and can cause diarrhea and feline infectious peritonitis.
• Intestinal parasites—Because roundworms and hookworms are transmitted through the placenta, most pups are born with these parasites.4 Kittens and pups can acquire roundworms through the dam's milk. Hookworms are transmitted to kittens and puppies through the placenta and mammary glands.4 In addition, some protozoan parasites cause diarrhea in the young. While rarely fatal, they can contribute to illness and put a neonate at higher risk of additional infection.
Things to look out for
To catch any struggling neonate early, always observe all the neonates' behavior and be on the lookout for key benchmarks. Normal puppy and kitten neonates sleep and nurse. They spend most of their time in a group and cry only briefly.5 Neonates that lie away from the group, cry constantly, are restless, or fail to nurse should be examined at once. By the age of 5 or 6 weeks, sleeping alone can be normal.6 The amount of activity increases dramatically after the second week of life.
The eyelids separate between 5 and 14 days. Ear canals
open at 6 to 14 days. Other benchmarks include crawling at 7 to 14 days, forelimb support at 10 days, and locomotion at 3 weeks of age.6 Teeth appear at about 6 weeks of age, although this can be delayed in toy breeds. These benchmarks are guidelines only and can vary dramatically among breeds and family lines.
What your veterinarian will do
If you see anything of concern, call your veterinarian immediately and schedule an appointment. Your veterinarian may instruct you to bring in the dam and the entire litter for examination. Be sure to bring records of weight gain since birth and any other data you have collected.
Your veterinarian will want to know about the dam's exposure to other dogs or cats during the last third of pregnancy as well as the travel history of housemates. He or she will also ask about the location, temperature, and exposure of the whelping and queening box to other animals. If you have purebred cats, inform your veterinarian of the blood types of the torn and queen, if known. Your veterinarian will also ask about the dam's ease of delivery, appetite, diet, vaccinations, mothering skills, and medications. Family history of neonatal survival can be useful, as can pedigree analysis.
Timely veterinary attention provides the best chances for saving these neonates' lives. Because the exact causes of fading puppy and kitten syndrome are often not immediately apparent, your veterinarian will initially focus on supportive care and diagnostic evaluation. Initial therapy may include providing supplemental warmth, fluids, glucose, nutrition, and sometimes a blood transfusion and oxygen. Medications such as antibiotics or parasiticides may also be needed. Swimmer neonates often respond to physical therapy, and some of the other congenital defects may be corrected with surgery. Intensive treatment of ill neonates is time-consuming yet extremely rewarding.

CUTDOWNSKENNELS@HOTMAIL.COM